Acclimating to Accra

We crossed the border from Togo into Ghana the most authentic way possible: on foot. Strapped into hefty backpacks, coated in dust and glistening with sweat, our band of bedraggled Midwesterners shuffled through the sand. The ocean wasn’t far from Sean’s apartment and then we followed the coast a short distance to the border. As…

The Rains of Kpalime

Our last morning in Lomé, I awoke with a start on my brother Sean’s rainbow cot in the living room of his apartment. Like most residents in Lomé, Sean does not have air conditioning, so I started sweating at 6 a.m. and didn’t stop until we reached Kpalimé on the Ghanaian border. When Sean first…

Welcome to West Africa

My first impression of Togo, West Africa, was oppressive humidity, auburn sand and the smoky-sweet aroma of melted waste. My parents and I stepped out of the Lomé airport into darkness with nothing more than our backpacks and the desperate hope that my older brother, Sean, was somewhere nearby, ready to usher us through a…